Ashley Hearth Products AF1300E Le manuel du propriétaire

Marque: Ashley Hearth Products

Modèle: AF1300E

Catégorie: Poêle à bois

Taper: Le manuel du propriétaire

United States Stove Company

227 Industrial Park Rd.

South Pittsburg, TN 37380

853119-1205H

Wood Only Central Furnace

Owner’s Operation and Instruction Manual

MODEL: AF1300E

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

THIS MANUAL WILL HELP YOU TO OBTAIN EFFICIENT, DEPENDABLE SERVICE FROM THE HEATER, AND ENABLE YOU

TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS CORRECTLY. KEEP IN A SAFE PLACE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.

CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING:

This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon monoxide, which

is know to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects and/or other

reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65warnings.ca.gov

Ce produit peut vous exposer à des produits chimiques, y compris le

monoxyde de carbone, qui est connu dans l'État de Californie pour causer

le cancer, des malformations congénitales et / ou d'autres problèmes de

reproduction. Pour plus d'informations, visitez www.P65warnings.ca.gov

Installation is to be preformed by a qualied

installer. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

Certied to UL 391 (R2014), and to CSA B366.1-

11 (R2015) with the Thermostatically Controlled

Damper Kit installed

U.S. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY

Certied to comply with the 2016 particulate

emission standards. Not approved for sale after

May 15, 2020

Report No.: 0215WH056E, 0215WH056S.REV001

SAFETY NOTICE:

If this unit is not properly installed, a re may result.

For your safety, follow the installation instructions.

Never use make-shift compromises during the

installation of this unit. Contact local building or re

ofcials about permits, restrictions and installation

requirements in your area.

CAUTION!

Please read this entire manual before you install or

use this unit. Failure to follow instructions may result

in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.

Improper Installation Could Void Your Warranty!

-2-

CAUTION:

• Power source not controlled by furnace main disconnect.

• Respect all local and national codes when installing this unit.

• This unit is not to be connected to a chimney ue serving another appliance.

• This unit is designed to burn solid hardwood only.

40.65

21.00

26-3/4

32-7/8

1.80

-3-

Combustible: Wood

Flue Pipe Diameter: 6” (153mm)

Flue Pipe Type: (Standard,

Single Wall, or Double Wall):

Black or Blued Steel 2100°F (650°C) Class “A”

Minimum Chimney Height: 12’

Maximum Log Length: 20”

Electrical 120V, 60Hz, 2.6A

Dimensions

Combustion Chamber:

Width x Depth:

12.8” X 20.3”

Volume:

Cubic Feet:

3.0 cubic feet

Door Opening: Width x Height: 11.6” X 11.5”

Weight (lbs): 350lbs

Specications

CONGRATULATIONS!

You’ve purchased a heater from North America’s oldest manufacturer of wood burning products.

By heating with wood you’re helping to CONSERVE ENERGY!

Wood is our only Renewable Energy Resource. Please do your part to preserve our wood supply. Plant at least

one tree each year. Future generations will thank you.

This manual describes the installation and operation of the Ashley, AF1300E wood heater.

This heater meets the 2016 U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s emission limits for wood

heaters sold after May 15, 2016. Under specic EPA test conditions this heater has been

shown to deliver heat at a rate of 18,850 – 56,000 BTU/hr. This heater achieved a particulate

emissions rate of 0.509 lb/mmBtu when tested to method CSA B415.1-10 (*and an overall

efciency of 60.01 %). The maximum overall heat output of this heater was tested to be

89,000 Btu/hr.

This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal

regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating

instructions in this manual.

The operation of this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with the owner’s manual will void you warranty and

is also against federal regulations.

This heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher efciencies and lower emissions generally result when

burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.

This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal regulations to

operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.

0215WH056E

-4-

Safety

• WARNING: Do not operate with fuel loading or ash removal doors open.

• Do not connect this unit to a chimney ue serving another appliance.

• WARNING DANGER: Risk of re or explosion. Do not burn garbage, gasoline, naphtha, motor oil, or other

inappropriate materials. Do not use chemicals or uids to start the re.

• WARNING: Risk of re. Do not operate with ue draft exceeding .060” water column/14.93 Pascals. Do not

operate with fuel loading and ash removal doors open. Do not store fuel or other combustible materials

within marked installation clearances. Inspect and clean ues and chimney regularly.

• CAUTION: Hot surfaces. Keep children away. Do not touch during operation.

• The heat exchanger, ue pipe, and chimney must be cleaned regularly to remove accumulated creosote

and ash. Ensure that the heat exchanger, ue pipe, and chimney are cleaned at the end of the heating

season to minimize corrosion during the summer months. The appliance, ue pipe, and chimney must be

kept in good condition. These instructions also apply to a draft inducer if used. To prevent ame or smoke

spillage, the slide bafe must be pulled out and the fuel loading door left cracked for 10 seconds prior to

opening door fully. Load fuel carefully or damage may result.

• Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away. Contact may cause skin burns.

• Do not use chemicals or uids to ignite the re.

• Do not leave the furnace unattended when the door is slightly opened.

• Do not burn garbage, ammable uid such as gasoline, naphtha or motor oil.

• Always close the door after the ignition.

• Consult your municipal building department or re ofcials about permits, restrictions and installations

requirements in your area.

• INSPECT FLUE PIPES, FLUE PIPE JOINTS, AND FLUE PIPE SEALS REGULARLY TO ENSURE THAT SMOKE AND FLUE

GASES ARE NOT DRAWN INTO, AND CIRCULATED BY, THE AIR-CIRCULATION SYSTEM.

• CAUTION: CLEAN OUT OF THE HEAT EXCHANGER, FLUE PIPE CHIMNEY, AND DRAFT INDUCER, IF USED, IS

ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT AT THE END OF THE HEATING SEASON TO MINIMIZE CORROSION DURING THE SUMMER

MONTHS, CAUSED BY ACCUMULATED ASH.

Unpacking And Preassemble

UNPACKING

1. Remove all packaging from the furnace.

2. Remove the supplied parts from the furnace.

BRICK ALIGNMENT

Inspect for any damage. Ensure that the bricks and

ash plug are positioned correctly and not broken (see

illustration for proper brick arrangement).

TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION

The following is a list of tools and materials needed to

install your furnace.

• 7/16” socket wrench.

• 5/16” socket (Best if using a power drill and a socket

bit).

• Pair of pliers or channel-locks.

• Power drill with an 1/8” drill bit to install sheet metal

screws into connector pipe..

• Sheet metal screws.

• Non-combustible oor protector as specied in this

manual.

• All chimney and chimney connector components

required for your particular venting installation..

• Electrical wiring tools and supplies.

• Ductwork for supply and return air.

Proper Fire Brick Alignment

-5-

Furnace Installation

Dimension Inch mm

A Backwall to Furnace 28 712

B Sidewall to Furnace 13 331

C Sidewall to Flue 21 534

D Backwall to Flue 18 458

E Supply Duct (rst 6 feet) 6 153

F Supply Duct (after rst 6 feet) 1 26

G Minimum Duct height 9.5 242

H Top of Door to Ceiling 48 1220

J Minimum Ceiling Height 77 1956

INSTALLATION OPTIONS

The installation of this furnace includes supplying electrical power, return (fresh air) ductwork, and supply air

ductwork. This furnace may be installed in two different congurations.

1. Stand alone wood furnace

2. Add-on wood furnace

See kit installation section in this manual to ensure proper assembly, installation and operation of your new

furnace.

If installing in an area with a fan it should not be allowed to create negative pressure in the room where the

furnace is installed.

LOCATING YOUR FURNACE (INSURE THAT THE REQUIRED MAINTENANCE CLEARANCES ARE MAINTAINED)

Your furnace must be installed as shown in this manual and in compliance with all local and national codes.

It is of the utmost importance that the clearances to combustible materials be strictly adhered to during

installation of the furnace. Refer to the table and diagrams below for minimum required clearances.

Back wall

Side wall

Ceiling

Floor Protector

Back wall

Side wall

Ceiling

Floor Protector

CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLESCLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES

-6-

MAINTENANCE CLEARANCES

Your furnace has recommended minimum maintenance clearance

requirements. These clearances insure that there is adequate room to

preform maintenance and service your furnace. DO NOT store fuel within

the specied clearances. See the table and diagram below to determine

the clearances for your furnace.

Dimension Inch mm

K Maintenance Clearance (Front) 24 610

L Maintenance Clearance (Left) 24 610

M Maintenance Clearance (Right) 24 610

N Maintenance Clearance (Rear) 36 915

Back wall

Side wall

Ceiling

Floor Protector

Back wall

Side wall

Ceiling

Floor Protector

MAINTENANCE CLEARANCE

FLOOR PROTECTOR REQUIREMENTS

FLOOR PROTECTOR

The furnace must be placed on solid concrete, solid masonry, or when

installed on a combustible oor, on a oor protector. The oor protector is

required to provide heat, live ember, and ash protection and must be of a

non-combustible, continuous solid surface to protect against inltration of

live embers and ash. Floor protection must have and R-Value of at least 1.4.

Refer to oor protector manufacturer’s instructions for installation directions.

The oor protector or non combustible oor must extend under the furnace

and beyond each side as shown below.

Dimension Inch mm

O* Front 16 407

P Flue rear 2 51

Q** Left 8 204

R** Right 8 204

S Flue Side 2 51

Duct Work Installation

We strongly recommend that the hot air ductwork be installed by a home

heating specialist. If doing the installation yourself, before you decide

which installation will best suit your needs, consult a qualied heating

technician and follow his recommendations as to the safest and most

efcient method of installation. This furnace can be installed in two ways,

as a stand alone or parallel unit, with an existing furnace.

SUPPLY AIR (HOT AIR) PLENUM

The warm-air supply duct shall be constructed of metal in accordance with

NFPA 90B, 2-1.1. The plenums installed to the furnace shall be constructed

of metal in accordance with NFPA 90B, 2-1.3. When installing this furnace

the hot air plenum is to have a minimum height of 24” (610mm) if the top

of the rst vertical section is not ush with the top of the rst horizontal

section of ductwork. If the top of the plenum is ush with the top of the rst

horizontal section of ductwork then the minium height is 15” (381mm).

RETURN AIR (FRESH AIR)

The return (fresh) air intake on the furnace is on the rear of the unit. The

ductwork must be mechanically attached to the unit or UFB908 blower

box with sheet metal screws to ensure a proper operation.

STAND ALONE INSTALLATION

If installing this furnace as a stand alone unit, ensure all local codes

and all instructions in this manual are followed, including clearance to

combustibles, oor protector specications and safety warnings.

21”

6”

Supply Air (Hot Air) Duct Work Outlet Size

Supply Air Plenum

Minimum Height Of 24”

Supply Air Plenum

With Minimum Height

Of 15”

-7-

CENTRAL INSTALLATION

Optional Kits

Thermostatically Controlled Damper Cold Air Return Enclosure Instruction

-8-

Accessory Installation

THERMODISC

COVER

4” ELECTRICAL

JUNCTION BOX

BLOWER

BLOWER GASKET

CLIP NUTS

(Not used in the upper center hole)

ASSEMBLY OF FURNACE

Your furnace requires the following items to be assembled or installed

by the service person:

Blower and Blower Control

Electrical Connections

1. Remove all parts from the unit (blower, thermodisc, and all

wiring) and inspect for damage, including the rebrick as some

breakage could occur during shipment.

2. Install the thermodisc on rear of furnace cabinet with the two

screws provided. Mount the conduit assembly from the junction

box to the thermostat bracket. Crimp the two female terminals

to each of the wire leads. Plug the wires to the thermodisc. NOTE:

It does not matter which of the two wires plugs to which terminal

on the thermodisc.

3. Remove blower from cartons. Remove junction box cover.

Attach clip nuts as in gure shown. Install blower(s) and gasket(s

with 1/4"-20 x 3/4" bolts as shown.

4. Refer to the wiring diagram for instructions on how to properly

wire the components.

SMOKE CURTAIN

Using two 1/4-20 x 1-1/4”

Carriage bolts, two smoke

curtain clips, and two nuts,

attach the smoke curtain

in place above the fuel

feed door as shown. After

installation, the smoke curtain

should swing freely back into

the furnace.

DOOR LATCH INSTALLATION

Use the two included bolts and nuts to secure the handle to the stove as shown.

Note: Adjust the handle as needed to insure a proper seal.

-9-

Electrical Installation

All electrical connections should be done by a qualied electrician

It is recommended to connect the furnace to its own 15 amp 120 Volt circuit from the house power supply

105°C

NOTE: Wire leads from the distribution blower are usually BOTH BLACK. Makes no difference which leads from

the motor(s) connects to the corresponding leads coming out of the conduit.

-10-

Chimney Installation

CHIMNEY

Your wood furnace may be hooked up with a factory built or masonry chimney, matching the diameter of the

exhaust. If you are using a factory built chimney, it must comply with UL 103 or CSA-B365 standard; therefore

it must be a Type HT (2100°F). It is extremely important that it be installed according to the manufacturer’s

specications.

If you are using a masonry chimney, it is important that it be built in compliance with the specications of the

National Building Code. It must be lined with re clay bricks, metal or clay tiles sealed together with re cement.

(Round ues are the most efcient).

The interior diameter of the chimney ue must be identical to the furnace smoke exhaust. A ue which is too

small may cause draft problems, while a large ue favors rapid cooling of the gas, and hence the build-up of

creosote and the risk of chimney res. Note that it is the chimney and not the furnace which creates the draft

effect; your furnace’s performance is directly dependent on an adequate draft from your chimney.

Do not connect this unit to a chimney ue serving another appliance.

The following recommendations may be useful for the installation of your chimney:

• It must rise above the roof at least 3’ (0.9m) from the uppermost point of contact.

• The exterior portion should be double or triple wall pipe to ensure proper draft.

• The chimney must exceed any part of the building or other obstruction within a 10’ (3.04m) distance by a

height of 2’ (0.6m).

• Installation of an interior chimney is always preferable to an exterior chimney. The interior chimney will be

hotter than an exterior chimney that is being cooled by the ambient air outside the house. Therefore the gas

which circulates will cool slower, thus reducing the build-up of creosote and the risk of chimney res.

• The draft caused by the tendency for hot air to rise will be increased with an interior chimney.

• Using a re screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to insure that it is not

obstructed thus blocking the draft, and it should be cleaned when used regularly.

IMPORTANCE OF PROPER DRAFT

Draft is the force which moves air from the appliance up through the chimney. The amount of draft in your

chimney depends on the length of the chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions and other factors. Too

much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance. Inadequate draft may cause back pufng into

the room and ‘plugging’ of the chimney. Inadequate draft will cause the appliance to leak smoke into the room

through appliance and chimney connector joints.

An uncontrollable burn or excessive temperature indicates excessive draft. Do not operate with the ue draft

exceeding .06 water column/14.93 Pascals. The draft can be checked with a draft gauge or manometer.

Take into account the chimney’s location to insure it is not too close to neighbors or in a valley which may cause

unhealthy or nuisance conditions.

-11-

MASONRY CHIMNEY

Ensure that a masonry chimney meets the minimum standards of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)

by having it inspected by a professional. Make sure there are no cracks, loose mortar or other signs of deterioration

and blockage. Have the chimney cleaned before the furnace is installed and operated. When connecting the

furnace through a combustible wall to a masonry chimney, special methods are needed as explained in the

“Combustible Wall Chimney Connector Pass-Throughs” Section.

-12-

COMBUSTIBLE WALL CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PASS-THROUGHS

Method A. 12” (304.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall

Member: Using a minimum thickness 3.5” (89 mm) brick

and a 5/8” (15.9 mm) minimum wall thickness clay liner,

construct a wall pass-through. The clay liner must conform

to ASTM C315 (Standard Specication for Clay Fire Linings)

or its equivalent. Keep a minimum of 12” (304.8 mm) of brick

masonry between the clay liner and wall combustibles. The

clay liner shall run from the brick masonry outer surface to

the inner surface of the chimney ue liner but not past the

inner surface. Firmly grout or cement the clay liner in place

to the chimney ue liner.

Method B. 9” (228.6 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall

Member: Using a 6” (152.4 mm) inside diameter, listed,

factory-built Solid-Pak chimney section with insulation

of 1” (25.4 mm) or more, build a wall pass-through with a

minimum 9” (228.6 mm) air space between the outer wall of

the chimney length and wall combustibles. Use sheet metal

supports fastened securely to wall surfaces on all sides, to

maintain the 9” (228.6 mm) air space. When fastening

supports to chimney length, do not penetrate the chimney

liner (the inside wall of the Solid-Pak chimney). The inner end

of the Solid-Pak chimney section shall be ush with the inside

of the masonry chimney ue, and sealed with a non-water

soluble refractory cement. Use this cement to also seal to

the brick masonry penetration.

Method C. 6” (152.4 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall

Member: Starting with a minimum 24 gauge (.024” [.61 mm])

6” (152.4 mm) metal chimney connector, and a minimum 24

gauge ventilated wall thimble which has two air channels of

1” (25.4 mm) each, construct a wall pass-through. There shall

be a minimum 6” (152.4) mm separation area containing

berglass insulation, from the outer surface of the wall thimble

to wall combustibles. Support the wall thimble, and cover

its opening with a 24-gauge minimum sheet metal support.

Maintain the 6” (152.4 mm) space. There should also be a

support sized to t and hold the metal chimney connector.

See that the supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces

on all sides. Make sure fasteners used to secure the metal

chimney connector do not penetrate chimney ue liner.

Method D. 2” (50.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall

Member: Start with a solid-pak listed factory built chimney

section at least 12” (304 mm) long, with insulation of 1” (25.4

mm) or more, and an inside diameter of 8” (2 inches [51 mm]

larger than the 6” [152.4 mm] chimney connector). Use this

as a pass-through for a minimum 24-gauge single wall steel

chimney connector. Keep solid-pak section concentric with

and spaced 1” (25.4 mm) off the chimney connector by

way of sheet metal support plates at both ends of chimney

section. Cover opening with and support chimney section

on both sides with 24 gauge minimum sheet metal supports.

See that the supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces

on all sides. Make sure fasteners used to secure chimney ue

do not penetrate ue liner.

NOTES:

Connectors to a masonry chimney, excepting method B, shall extend in one continuous section through the

wall pass-through system and the chimney wall, to but not past the inner ue liner face. A chimney connector

shall not pass through an attic or roof space, closet or similar concealed space, or a oor, or ceiling.

-13-

CHIMNEY CONNECTOR

Your chimney connector and chimney must have the same diameter as the furnace outlet. If this is not the case,

we recommend you contact your dealer in order to insure there will be no problem with the draft.

The furnace pipe must be made of aluminized or cold roll steel with a minimum thickness of 0.021” or 0.53 mm. It

is strictly forbidden to use galvanized steel.

Your connector should be assembled in such a way that the male section (crimped end) of the pipe faces

down. Attach each of the sections to one another with three equidistant metal screws. Seal the joints with furnace

cement.

The pipe must be short and straight. All sections installed horizontally must slope at least 1/4 inch per foot, with

the upper end of the section toward the chimney. Any installation with a horizontal run of furnace pipe must

conform to NFPA 211. You may contact NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) and request the latest edition

of the NFPA Standard 211.

To insure a good draft, the total length of the furnace pipe should be at lease 12’ (3.67m). There should never

be more than two 90 degrees elbows in the smoke exhaust system. Installation of a “barometric draft stabilizer”

(replace register) on a smoke exhaust system is prohibited. Do not use with a ue damper. With a controlled

combustion wood furnaces the draft is regulated upon intake of the combustion air in the furnace and not at

the exhaust.

Appliance

-14-

FACTORY BUILT CHIMNEY

When a metal prefabricated chimney is used, the manufacturer’s installation instructions must be followed. You

must also purchase (from the same manufacturer) and install the ceiling support package or wall pass-through

and “T” section package, restops (where needed), insulation shield, roof ashing, chimney cap, etc. Maintain

proper clearance to the structure as recommended by the manufacturer. The chimney must be the required

height above the roof or other obstructions for safety and proper draft operation.

-15-

OPERATING THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY AIR SETTINGS

Primary air- is the driving air supply that feeds the re in the heater. This air is introduced through the damper in

the feed door to sustain the combustion.

Secondary air – is the air supply that is typically introduced above the re to effectively “re-burn” the smoke

created in the primary combustion before the exhaust gasses exit the stove. This air is preheated before being

injected into the heater so it can react with (re-burn) the smoke when they mix.

When increasing the amount of primary air supplied to the heater, the secondary should also be increased as

well to ensure a clean burn.

Start up: During Start-up the Primary and the Secondary air adjustments should be in the fully open or the “High”

setting positions. This allows for the maximum amount of combustion air during the initial start-up to insure the

fastest and cleanest start-up. These settings should remain open until the stove has heated up and an adequate

re has been established. Once the re is well established, both the primary and the secondary air settings can

be adjusted down to the desired heat setting. The primary and the secondary air mix inside the rebox to provide

a more efcient and cleaner burn. We encourage that you get to know your stove and how it reacts to adjusting

both the primary and the secondary air dampers so that you can achieve the best burn possible for the type of

wood and the draft situations in your particular installation.

AIR CONTROL’S

MAXIMUM BURN RATE SETTING

FULLY OPENED

Secondary Air Damper

FULLY OPENED

Primary Air Damper

FULLY CLOSED

Secondary Air Damper

FULLY CLOSED

Primary Air Damper

MAXIMUM BURN RATE SETTING

FULLY OPENED

Secondary Air Damper

FULLY OPENED

Primary Air Damper

FULLY CLOSED

Secondary Air Damper

FULLY CLOSED

Primary Air Damper

AIR CONTROL’S

Low Burn Rate High Burn Rate

Primary Air Damper Fully Closed Fully Open

Secondary Air Damper Fully Closed Fully Open

Operation

-16-

The top down method of re building is recommended for this appliance. After making sure that the stove air

intake controls are fully open (both air controls open to there maximum setting). Place the largest pieces of wood

on the bottom, laid in parallel and close together. Smaller pieces are placed in a second layer, crossways to the

rst. A third layer of still smaller pieces is laid crossways to the second, this time with some spaces between. Then

a fourth layer of loose, small kindling and twisted newspaper sheets tops off the pile.

Higher efciencies and lower emissions generally result when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as

compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.

DO NOT BURN:

1. Garbage;

2. Lawn clippings or yard waste;

3. Materials containing rubber, including tires;

4. Materials containing plastic;

5. Waste petroleum products, paints or paint

thinners, or asphalt products;

6. Materials containing asbestos;

7. Construction or demolition debris;

8. Railroad ties or pressure-treated wood;

9. Manure or animal remains;

10. Salt water driftwood or other previously salt water

saturated materials;

11. Unseasoned wood; or

12. Paper products, cardboard, plywood, or

particleboard. The prohibition against burning

these materials does not prohibit the use of re

starters made from paper, cardboard, saw dust,

wax and similar substances for the purpose of

starting a re in an affected wood heater.

Burning these materials may result in release of toxic fumes or render the heater ineffective and cause smoke.

Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical additives.

Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but be careful burning too much of

these logs at the same time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the stove reacts. You can increase

the number of logs burned at a time to making sure the temperature never rises higher than 475 °F (246 °C) on a

magnetic thermometer for installation on single wall stove pipes or 900 °F (482 °C) on a probe thermometer for

installation on double wall stove pipe. The thermometer should be placed about 18” (457 mm) above the stove.

Higher temperatures can lead to overheat and damage your stove.

Dead wood lying on the forest oor should be considered wet, and requires full seasoning

time. Standing dead wood can usually be considered to be about 2/3 seasoned.

Splitting and stacking wood before it is stored accelerates drying time. Storing wood on

an elevated surface from the ground and under a cover or covered area from rain or

snow also accelerates drying time. A good indicator if wood is ready to burn is to check

the piece ends. If there are cracks radiating in all directions from the center then the

wood should be dry enough to burn. If your wood sizzles in the re, even though the

surface is dry, it may not be fully cured, and should be seasoned longer.

TYPE

WEIGHT

(LBS. CU. FT., DRY)

PER CORD

EFFICIENCY

RANKING

SPLITS

MILLIONS BTU’s/

CORD

Hickory 63 4500 1.0 Well 31.5

White Oak 48 4100 .9 Fair 28.6

Red Oak 46 3900 .8 Fair 27.4

Beech 45 3800 .7 Hard 26.8

Sugar Maple 44 3700 .6 Fair 26.2

Black Oak 43 3700 .6 Fair 25.6

Ash 42 3600 .5 Well 25.0

Yellow Birch 40 3400 .4 Hard 23.8

Red Maple 38 3200 .3 Fair 22.6

Paper Birch 37 3100 .3 Easy 22.1

Elm/

Sycamore

34 2900 .2

Very

Difcult

20.1

Red Spruce 29 1800 .1 Easy 16.1

Your furnace was designed

to burn wood only; no other

materials should be burned.

Waste and other ammable

materials should not be

burned in your furnace. DO

NOT USE CHEMICALS OR

FLUIDS TO START THE FIRE.

DO NOT BURN GARBAGE,

GASOLINE, NAPTHA, ENGINE

OIL, OR OTHER INAPPROPRIATE

MATERIALS. Any type of wood

may be used in your furnace,

but specic varieties have

better energy yields than

others. Please consult the

provided table in order to

make the best possible choice.

-17-

NOTICE: To minimize the risk of smoke spillage when opening the door with a re in your furnace, crack

the door open no more than 1” and wait for at least 10 seconds before opening it more to allow pressure

stabilization inside the furnace.

TESTING YOUR WOOD

When the furnace is thoroughly warmed, place one piece of split wood (about ve inches in diameter) parallel

to the door on the bed of red embers.

Adjust all air controls to there maximum settings and close the door. If ignition of the piece is accomplished

within 90 seconds from the time if was placed in the furnace, your wood is correctly dried. If ignition takes longer,

your wood is damp.

If your wood hisses and water or vapor escapes at the ends of the piece, your wood is soaked or freshly cut.

Do not use this wood in your furnace. Large amounts of creosote could be deposited in your chimney, creating

potential conditions for a chimney re.

THE FIRST FIRES

The fresh paint on your furnace needs to be cured to preserve its quality. Once the fuel charge is properly

ignited, only burn small res in your furnace for the rst four hours of operation. Never open the air control’s more

than necessary to achieve a medium burn rate.

Make sure that there’s enough air circulation while curing the furnace. DO NOT connect your furnace to the

duct work during this curing process. The odors could be smelled during the 3 or 4 rst res. Never start your

furnace outside. You will not be able to see if you are over heating.

LIGHTING YOUR WOOD FURNACE

1. Make sure that your furnace has been installed as per the instructions outlined in this manual and the proper

power is supplied to it.

2. Open the fuel loading door.

3. Note: If there already is a bed of hot/glowing coals in the combustion chamber, proceed directly to the

Preheating step.

4. Place several pieces of small dry kindling in the front of the combustion chamber directly on the rebricks.

5. Lay a few twists of newspaper over the kindling.

6. Lay more dry kindling (crisscrossing) on top of the previous layers and possibly a few more twists of newspaper

if needed.

7. Light the lowest newspaper in the stack.

Note: In some draft situations you may be required to leave the door cracked no more than ½” only till a re is

established in the stack

No chemical product should be used to light the re.

PREHEATING YOUR WOOD FURNACE

1. Once the kindling is burning well or the glowing coal bed is stirred up, lay 2 or 3 pieces of well-seasoned

cordwood down so that the ame from the kindling re can circulate around the logs and close the door.

Note: You may need to add more kindling to help ignite the cordwood.

2. Before loading your furnace fully you will want a well-established re in the combustion chamber. This

typically takes 15-20 minutes.

It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you use DRY WOOD only. The wood should have dried for 9 to 15 months, such

that the humidity content (in weight) is reduced below 20% of the weight of the log. It is very important to keep

in mind that even if the wood has been cut for one, two or even more years, it is not necessarily dry, if it has

been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions it may rot, instead of drying. This point cannot be over

stressed; the vast majority of the problems related to the operation of a wood furnace is caused by the fact that

the wood used was too damp or has dried in poor conditions.

These problems can be:

• Ignition problems

• Creosote build-up causing chimney res

• Low energy yield

• Blackened windows

• Incomplete log combustion

Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. All logs exceeding 6” in diameter should be split. The wood should not be

stored directly on the ground. Air should circulate through the cord. A 24” to 48” air space should be left between

each row of logs, which should be placed in the sunniest location possible. The upper layer of wood should be

protected from the elements but not the sides.

-18-

HEATING WITH YOUR WOOD FURNACE

1. Spread the re and coals evenly towards the center of the combustion chamber before loading your

furnace fully or adding more wood.

2. Avoid overlling the combustion chamber. Air must be allowed to circulate freely through the upper portion

of the combustion chamber for the stove to perform best. Typically this would mean not to load your furnace

more than ¾ of the way up the door opening.

OPERATION

Controlled combustion is the most efcient technique for wood heating because it enables you to select the

type of combustion you want for each given situation. The wood will burn slowly if the wood furnace air intake

control’s are adjusted to reduce the oxygen supply in the combustion chamber to a minimum. On the other hand,

wood will burn quickly if the air control’s are adjusted to admit a larger quantity of oxygen in the combustion

chamber. Real operating conditions may give very different results than those obtained during testing according

to the species of wood used, its moisture content, the size and density of the pieces, the length of the chimney,

altitude and outside temperature.

RELOADING

Once you have obtained a good bed of embers, you should reload the unit. In order to do so, open the air

controls to maximum a few seconds prior to opening the furnace’s door. Then proceed by opening the door very

slowly. Then bring the red embers to the front of the furnace and reload the unit.

For optimal operation of your wood furnace, we recommend you to operate it with a wood load approximately

equivalent to the 3/4 of the height of re bricks.

It is important to note that wood combustion consumes ambient oxygen in the room. In the case of negative

pressure, it is a good idea to allow fresh air in the room, either by opening a window slightly or by installing a fresh

air intake system on an outside wall.

Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal - When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic

vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively

cool chimney ue of a slow-burning re. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the ue lining. When

ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot re. The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at

least twice monthly during the heating season to determine if a creosote build-up has occurred. If creosote has

accumulated (3mm or more), it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney re.

We strongly recommend that you install a magnetic thermometer on your smoke exhaust pipe, approximately

18” above the furnace. This thermometer will indicate the temperature of your gas exhaust fumes within the

smoke exhaust system. The ideal temperature for these gases is somewhere between 275°F and 500°F. Below

these temperatures, the build-up of creosote is promoted. Above 500 degrees, heat is wasted since a too large

quantity is lost into the atmosphere.

TO PREVENT CREOSOTE BUILD UP

Always burn dry wood. This allows clean burns and higher chimney temperatures, therefore less creosote deposit.

Leave the air control full open for about 5 min. every time you reload the furnace to bring it back to proper

operating temperatures. The secondary combustion can only take place if the rebox is hot enough.

Always check for creosote deposit once every two months and have your chimney cleaned at least once a

year. If a chimney or creosote re occurs, close all dampers immediately. Wait for the re to go out and the

heater to cool, then inspect the chimney for damage. If no damage results, perform a chimney cleaning to

ensure there is no more creosote deposits remaining in the chimney.

CAUTION: Never alter the “damper slide” or the adjustment range to increase ring for any reason. Doing so

could result in heater damage and will void your warranty.

WARNINGS:

• Never over re your furnace. If any part of the furnace starts to glow red, over ring is happening. Readjust

the air intake control at a lower setting.

• The installation of a log cradle or grates is not recommended in your wood furnace. Build re directly on

rebrick.

• Never put wood above the rebrick lining of the rebox.

-19-

ASH DISPOSAL

Whenever ashes get 3 to 4 inches deep in your rebox or ash pan, and when the re has burned down and

cooled, remove excess ashes. Leave an ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on the rebox bottom to help

maintain a hot charcoal bed.

Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-tting lid. The closed container of ashes should be

placed on a noncombustible oor or on the ground, away from all combustible materials, pending nal disposal.

The ashes should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.

If there is a soot or creosote re:

• Establish a routine for the storage of fuel, care for the appliance and ring techniques.

• Check daily for creosote buildup until experience shows how often cleaning is necessary.

• Be aware that the hotter the re, the less creosote is deposited, and that weekly cleaning can be necessary

in mild weather, even though monthly cleaning can be enough in the coldest months.

• Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney re.

TAMPER WARNING

This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal

regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating

instructions in this manual.

VISIBLE SMOKE

The amount of visible smoke being produced can be an effective method of determining how efciently the

combustion process is taking place at the given settings. Visible smoke consist of unburned fuel and moisture

leaving your stove. Learn to adjust the air settings of your specic unit to produce the smallest amount of visible

smoke. Wood that has not been seasoned properly and has a high wood moisture content will produce excess

visible smoke and burn poorly. Use the included moisture meter to insure your wood has a 20% or less moisture

content.

EFFICIENCY

Efciencies can be based on either the lower heating value (LHV) or the higher heating value (HHV) of the fuel.

The lower heating value is when water leaves the combustion process as a vapor, in the case of wood stoves the

moisture in the wood being burned leaves the stove as a vapor. The higher heating value is when water leaves

the combustion process completely condensed. In the case of wood stoves this would assume the exhaust gases

are room temperature when leaving the system, and therefore calculations using this heating value consider

the heat going up the chimney as lost energy. Therefore, efciency calculated using the lower heating value of

wood will be higher than efciency calculated using the higher heating value. In the United States all wood stove

efciencies should be calculated using the higher heating value. The best way to achieve optimum efciencies

is to learn the burn characteristic of you appliance and burn well-seasoned wood. Higher burn rates are not

always the best heating burn rates; after a good re is established a lower burn rate may be a better option for

efcient heating. A lower burn rate slows the ow of usable heat out of the home through the chimney, and it

also consumes less wood.

SMOKE AND CO MONITORS

Burning wood naturally produces smoke and carbon monoxide(CO) emissions. CO is a poisonous gas when

exposed to elevated concentrations for extended periods of time. While the modern combustion systems in

heaters drastically reduce the amount of CO emitted out the chimney, exposure to the gases in closed or conned

areas can be dangerous. Make sure you stove gaskets and chimney joints are in good working order and sealing

properly to ensure unintended exposure. It is recommended that you use both smoke and CO monitors in areas

having the potential to generate CO.

OVER FIRING

Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design specications can result in permanent

damage to the heater

CAUTIONS:

• Ashes could contain hot embers even after two days without operating the furnace.

• The ash pan can become very hot. Wear gloves to prevent injury.

• Never burn the furnace with the ash trap open. This would result in over ring the furnace. Damage to the

furnace and even house re may result.

-20-

POWER FAILURE INSTRUCTIONS

DO NOT add additional fuel after a power failure, remove all air lters and reduce combustion air to a minimum.

Observe furnace closely until power is restored.

OPERATIONAL TIPS

• Get the appliance hot and establish a good coal bed before adjusting to a low burn rate (this may take 30

minutes or more depending on your wood), for an optimal low burn rate, once there is a well established re

in the furnace, close the damper on the door and open the secondary air damper to its maximum setting

• Use smaller pieces of wood during start-up and a high burn rate to increase the stove temperature

• Be considerate of the environment and only burn dry wood

• Burn small, intense res instead of large, slow burning res when possible

• Learn your appliance’s operating characteristics to obtain optimum performance

• Burning unseasoned wet wood only hurts your stoves efciency and leads to accelerated creosote buildup

in your chimney.

Your wood furnace is a high efciency furnace and therefore requires little maintenance. It is important to

perform a visual inspection of the furnace every time it is emptied, in order to insure that no parts have been

damaged, in which case repairs must be performed immediately. Inspect and clean the chimney and connector

pipe periodically for creosote buildup or obstructions.

GASKET

It is recommended that you change the door gasket (which makes your furnace door air tight) once a year, in

order to insure good control over the combustion, maximum efciency and security. To change the door gasket,

simply remove the damaged one. Carefully clean the available gasket groove, apply a high temperature silicone

sold for this purpose and install the new gasket. You may light up your furnace again approximately 24 hours after

having completed this operation. This unit’s feed door uses a 3/4” diameter rope gasket. This unit’s ash door uses

a 1/2” diameter rope gasket.

PAINT

Only clean your furnace with a dry soft cloth that will not harm the paint nish. If the paint becomes scratched or

damaged, it is possible to give your wood furnace a brand new look by repainting it with a 1200° F heat resistant

paint. For this purpose, simply scrub the surface to be repainted with ne sand paper, clean it properly, and apply

thin coats (2) of paint successively.

AIR TUBES

The air tubes assembled in this unit are designed to provide an accurate mix of secondary air to insure the

highest efciency. Any damage or deterioration of these tubes may reduce the efciency of combustion. The

air tubes are held in position by either screws or snap pins. Locate these to either side of the tube and remove to

allow the tube to be removed and replaced.

WARNING: Never operate the furnace without a gasket or with a broken one. Damage to the furnace or

even house re may result.

Maintenance

ATTENTION: This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal

regulations to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.

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Ashley Hearth Products AF1300E Le manuel du propriétaire

Marque: Ashley Hearth Products

Modèle: AF1300E

Catégorie: Poêle à bois

Taper: Le manuel du propriétaire

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Ashley Hearth Products AF1300E Le manuel du propriétaire

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