USSC AF1600E Mode d'emploi

Marque: USSC

Modèle: AF1600E

Catégorie: Poêle à bois

Taper: Mode d'emploi

Owner’s Installation and Operation Manual

Model 1660E

Installation is to be preformed by a

qualied installer.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

NOT FOR USE IN A MOBILE HOME

United States Stove Company

227 Industrial Park Rd.

South Pittsburg, TN 37380

852856C-0104H

U.S. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY

Certied to comply with the 2017 particulate

emission standards. Not approved for sale after

May 15, 2020

Report No: 0215WH080S.REV001

Conforms to UL 391 (R2014) and

Conforms to CAN/CSA-B366.1(R2015)

with the Thermostatically Controlled

Damper kit installed

CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING:

This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon monoxide, which

is known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects and/or other

reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65warnings.ca.gov

Ce produit peut vous exposer à des produits chimiques, y compris le

monoxyde de carbone, qui est connu dans l'État de Californie pour causer

le cancer, des malformations congénitales et / ou d'autres problèmes de

reproduction. Pour plus d'informations, visitez www.P65warnings.ca.gov

CAUTION:

• Power source not controlled by furnace main disconnect.

• Respect all local and national codes when installing this unit.

• This unit is not to be connected to a chimney ue serving

another appliance.

• This unit is designed to burn solid hardwood only.

Combustible: Wood

Flue Pipe Diameter: 6” (153cm)

Flue Pipe Type: (Standard Single Wall or Double Wall): Black or Blued Steel 2100°F (650°C) Class “A”

Minimum Chimney Height: 12’

Maximum Log Length: 28”

Electrical: 120V, 60Hz, 3.4A per blower

Dimensions

Combustion Chamber:

Width x Depth:

17.4” X 28.3”

Volume:

Cubic Feet:

6.27 cubic feet

Door Opening: Width x Height: 12.625” X 12.5”

Weight (lbs): 509lbs

Specications

CONGRATULATIONS!

You’ve purchased a heater from North America’s oldest manufacturer of wood burning products.

By heating with wood you’re helping to CONSERVE ENERGY!

Wood is our only Renewable Energy Resource. Please do your part to preserve our wood supply. Plant at least

one tree each year. Future generations will thank you.

This manual describes the installation and operation of the Ashley, 1660E wood

heater. This heater meets the 2016 U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s

emission limits for wood heaters sold after May 15, 2016. Under specic EPA

test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at a rate of 33,438

to 77,456 BTU/hr. This heater achieved a particulate emissions rate of 0.305

lbs/mmBTU when tested to method CSA B415.1-10 (*and an overall efciency

of 61.9%.) The maximum overall heat output of this heater was tested to be

104,720 BTU/hr.

This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal

regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating

instructions in this manual.

The operation of this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with the owner’s manual will void your warranty and

is also against federal regulations.

This heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher efciencies and lower emissions generally result when

burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.

This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal regulations to

operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.

0215WH080E

37.79”

26.54”

48”

48.81”

48”

1220 mm

26.54”

675 mm

37.79”

26.54”

48”

48.81”

37.79”

960 mm

48.81”

1240 mm

Safety

• Do not operate with fuel loading or ash removal doors open.

• Do not connect this unit to a chimney ue serving another appliance.

• Danger: Risk of re or explosion. Do not burn garbage, gasoline, naphtha, motor oil, or other inappropriate

materials. Do not use chemicals or uids to start the re.

• Warning: Risk of re. Do not operate with ue draft exceeding .060” water column/14.93 Pascals. Do not

operate with fuel loading and ash removal doors open. Do not store fuel or other combustible materials

within marked installation clearances. Inspect and clean ues and chimney regularly.

• Caution: Hot surfaces. Keep children away. Do not touch during operation.

• The heat exchanger, ue pipe, and chimney must be cleaned regularly to remove accumulated creosote

and ash. Ensure that the heat exchanger, ue pipe, and chimney are cleaned at the end of the heating

season to minimize corrosion during the summer months. The appliance, ue pipe, and chimney must be

kept in good condition. These instructions also apply to a draft inducer if used. To prevent ame or smoke

spillage, the slide bafe must be pulled out and the fuel loading door left cracked for 10 seconds prior

to opening door fully. Load fuel carefully or damage may result. For Canadian installations - not to be

connected to a ductwork that is still connected to another furnace.

• Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away. Contact may cause skin burns.

• Do not use chemicals or uids to ignite the re.

• Do not leave the furnace unattended when the door is slightly opened.

• Do not burn garbage, ammable uid such as gasoline, naphtha or motor oil.

• Always close the door after the ignition.

• Consult your municipal building department or re ofcials about permits, restrictions and installations

requirements in your area.

• INSPECT FLUE PIPES, FLUE PIPE JOINTS, AND FLUE PIPE SEALS REGULARLY TO ENSURE THAT SMOKE AND FLUE

GASES ARE NOT DRAWN INTO, AND CIRCULATED BY, THE AIR-CIRCULATION SYSTEM.

• CAUTION: CLEAN OUT OF THE HEAT EXCHANGER, FLUE PIPE CHIMNEY, AND DRAFT INDUCER, IF USED, IS

ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT AT THE END OF THE HEATING SEASON TO MINIMIZE CORROSION DURING THE SUMMER

MONTHS, CAUSED BY ACCUMULATED ASH.

• CAUTION: Do not operate furnace with power disconnected from the unit.

Unpacking And Preassemble

UNPACKING

1. Remove all packaging from the furnace.

2. Remove the supplied tools and parts from the furnace.

BRICK ALIGNMENT

Inspect for any damage. Ensure that the bricks are positioned correctly

and not broken (see illustration for proper brick arrangement).

TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION

The following is a list of tools and materials needed to install your furnace.

• 7/16” socket wrench.

• 5/16” socket (Best if using a power drill and a socket bit).

• Pair of pliers or channel-locks.

• Power drill with an 1/8” drill bit to install sheet metal screws into connector pipe..

• Sheet metal screws.

• Non-combustible oor protector as specied in this manual.

• All chimney and chimney connector components required for your particular venting installation..

• Electrical wiring tools and supplies.

• Ductwork for supply and return air.

Proper Fire Brick Alignment

Furnace Installation

Dimension Inches mm

A Backwall to Appliance 17 432

B Sidewall to Appliance 12 305

C Backwall to Flue 23 585

D Sidewall to Flue 22.5 572

E Supply Duct (rst 6 feet) 6 153

F Supply Duct (after rst 6 feet) 1 26

G Minimum Duct height 6 153

H Ceiling Height to Floor 84 2134

J Top of Door to Ceiling 48 1220

* Closest Point of Zero Clearance 2’ 610

Ceiling

Back wall

Side wall

CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES

INSTALLATION OPTIONS

The installation of this furnace includes supplying electrical power, return (fresh air) ductwork, and supply air

ductwork. This furnace may be installed as a stand alone wood furnace.

See kit installation section in this manual to ensure proper assembly, installation and operation of your new

furnace.

If installing in an area with a fan it should not be allowed to create negative pressure in the room where the

furnace is installed.

LOCATING YOUR FURNACE (INSURE THAT THE REQUIRED MAINTENANCE CLEARANCES ARE MAINTAINED)

Your furnace must be installed as shown in this manual and in compliance with all local and national codes.

It is of the utmost importance that the clearances to combustible materials be strictly adhered to during

installation of the furnace. Refer to the table and diagrams below for minimum required clearances.

Standard unit (no additional kits)

Dimension Inch mm

K Maintenance Clearance (Front) 24 610

L Maintenance Clearance (Left) 10 254

M Maintenance Clearance (Right) 10 254

N Maintenance Clearance (Rear) 29 737

Unit with Blower Kit

Dimension Inch mm

K Maintenance Clearance (Front) 24 610

L Maintenance Clearance (Left) 24 610

M Maintenance Clearance (Right) 24 610

N Maintenance Clearance (Rear) 36 915

MAINTENANCE CLEARANCE

Dimension Inch mm

O Front 16 407

P Rear 2 51

Q Left 8 204

R Right 8 204

FLOOR PROTECTOR REQUIREMENTS

Canadian installations require 18” (457mm)

MAINTENANCE CLEARANCES

Your furnace has recommended minimum maintenance

clearance requirements. These clearances insure that

there is adequate room to preform maintenance and

service your furnace. DO NOT store fuel within the specied

clearances. The clearances will change depending on

what kits are installed with your furnace. See the tables

and diagram below to determine the clearances for your

furnace.

FLOOR PROTECTOR

The furnace must be placed on solid concrete, solid

masonry, or when installed on a combustible oor, on a

oor protector. The oor protector is required to provide

heat, live ember, and ash protection and must be of a non-

combustible, continuous solid surface to protect against

inltration of live embers and ash. If a oor pad is used, it

should be listed to UL 1618 (type 1 ember protection) or

equal. For UL Listed oor protectors, refer to manufacturers

instructions for installation directions. The oor protector or

non combustible oor must extend under the furnace and

beyond each side as shown below.

Duct Work Installation

DUCTWORK INSTALLATION

We strongly recommend that the hot air ductwork be installed by a home heating specialist. If doing the

installation yourself, before you decide which installation will best suit your needs, consult a qualied heating

technician and follow his recommendations as to the safest and most efcient method of installation.

This furnace can be installed in two ways, as a stand alone unit, or in series with an existing furnace.

SUPPLY AIR (HOT AIR) PLENUM

The warm-air supply duct shall be constructed of metal in accordance with NFPA 90B, 2-1.1. The plenums installed

to the furnace shall be constructed of metal in accordance with NFPA 90B, 2-1.3.

When installing this furnace the hot air plenum is to have a minimum height of 24” (610mm) if the top of the rst

vertical section is not ush with the top of the rst horizontal section of ductwork. If the top of the plenum is ush

with the top of the rst horizontal section of ductwork then the minium height is 15” (381mm).

RETURN AIR (FRESH AIR)

The return (fresh) air intake on the furnace is on the rear of the unit. The ductwork must be mechanically

attached to the unit or blower kit box with sheet metal screws to ensure a proper operation.

STAND ALONE INSTALLATION

If installing this furnace as a stand alone unit, ensure all local codes and all instructions in this manual are followed,

including clearance to combustibles, oor protector specications and safety warnings.

Installation

CENTRAL INSTALLATION

ADD-ON INSTALLATION

26.54”

Supply Air (Hot Air) Duct Work Outlet Size

Supply Air Plenum

Minimum Height Of 24”

Supply Air Plenum With

Minimum Height Of 15”

Accessory Installation

THERMODISC

COVER

4” ELECTRICAL

JUNCTION BOX

BLOWERS

BLOWERS GASKET

CLIP NUTS

(Not used in the upper center hole)

ASSEMBLY OF FURNACE

Your furnace requires the following items to be

assembled or installed by the service person:

Blowers and Blower Controls

Electrical Connections

1. Remove all parts from inside the furnace and

inspect for damage, including the rebrick as

some breakage could occur during shipment.

2. Install the thermodisc on rear of furnace

cabinet with the two screws provided. Mount

the conduit assembly from the junction box to

the thermostat bracket. Crimp the two female

terminals to each of the wire leads. Plug the

wires to the thermodisc. NOTE: It does not matter

which of the two wires plugs to which terminal

on the thermodisc.

3. Remove blowers from cartons. Remove junction

box cover. Attach clip nuts as in gure shown.

Install blower(s) and gasket(s with 1/4”-20 x 3/4”

bolts as shown.

4. Wire right side blower rst (See wiring diagram)

and replace cover on junction box on blower.

5. Wire left blower same as above and replace

cover.

6. Check operation of shaker grates with grate

handle before operating furnace.

SMOKE CURTAIN

Using two 1/4-20 x 1-1/4”

Carriage bolts, two smoke curtain

clips, and two nuts, attach the

smoke curtain in place above

the fuel feed door as shown. After

installation, the smoke curtain

should swing freely back into the

furnace.

DOOR LATCH INSTALLATION

With two 1/4-20 x 3/4 hex bolts each, attach the door latch to the door latch mounting

brackets on the left side of the door frames as illustrated. The slots in the brackets and

latches are for door seal adjustment. Make the proper adjustments, then tighten the

nuts. The door’s gasket should be snug against the door frame on the furnace.

U.S. Installations ONLY

Electrical Installation

105°C

NOTE: Wire leads from the distribution blower are usually BOTH

BLACK. Makes no difference which leads from the motor(s)

connects to the corresponding leads coming out of the conduit.

All electrical connections should be done by a qualied electrician

It is recommended to connect the furnace to its own 15 amp 120 Volt circuit from the house power supply.

STEP 1

Unscrew and remove the two knobs.

STEP 2

Remove the current damper weldment. NOTE: Keep

the (4) four 1/4-20 x 1/2 self-tapping screws, they will be

needed for the following steps.

STEP 3

Remove the (6) six 1/4-20 lock nuts, springs, and washers

and set aside. Remove the two damper plates. NOTE:

Keep the (6) six 1/4-20 nuts, springs, and washers, they

will be needed for the following steps.

STEP 4

Slide the two new damper plates into place as shown.

Use the previously removed (6) six 1/4-20 lock nuts,

springs, and washers to attach the new air slides to your

unit. IMPORTANT: The (6) six 1/4-20 lock nuts, springs,

and washers must be installed in the same order as they

were removed (rst the washer then the spring and last

the 1/4-20 lock nut as shown). DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

The air slides must be allowed to move freely.

STEP 5

Use the previously removed (4) four 1/4-20 x 1/2 self-

tapping screws to attach the new damper weldment

to the unit as shown.

STEP 6

Attach the linkage rod to the damper weldment using

(2) two 1/4-20 lock nuts as shown.

Attach the servo arm to the linkage rod using (2) two

1/4-20 lock nuts as shown.

Thermostatically Controlled Damper Installation

*CANADIAN RESIDENTS MUST USE THIS KIT FOR INSTALLATION.

STEP 7

Attach the actuator to the servo bracket using (2) two

#10 X .500 screws. Make sure the servo bracket is ush

with the of the top of the actuator before securing.

STEP 8

Measure 14” from the oor to the bottom of the servo

bracket to locate the placement of the actuator.

NOTE: When locating the position of the actuator, insert

the servo arm into the actuator as shown.

Use (3) three #10 x .500 screws to attach the actuator

to the unit.

STEP 8

Use a self drilling screw to attach the handle hook on

the lower right hand side of the front of the unit.

14”

Servo Arm

Actuator

Handle Hook

ATTENTION: Use the “Thermostatically Controlled

Damper Wiring Diagram” to complete the installation.

Thermostatically Controlled Damper Wiring Diagram

NOTE: The extra brown wire on the fan center has no use. It should be

capped off or removed.

The conduit may be cut shorter to provide a cleaner installation.

• (2) 800 CFM Blower

• (2) Gasket, Blower

• (8) Tinnerman Clip, 1/4-20

• (8) 1/4-20 x 3/4 Bolt

• (2) Conduit Assembly (5ft)

• (1) Honeywell Limit Control

• (1) Conduit Assembly (1ft)

• (1) Junction Box

• (1) Insulation (5” x 5”)

• (1) Rocker Switch

• (1) Romex Cable Clamp

• (1) Fan Center Control

• (5) 73B Wire Nut

• (1) 74B Wire Nut

• (1) Female Term. (blue)

• (1) Female Term. (red)

• (8) #10 x 1/2 Screw

*CANADIAN RESIDENTS MUST USE THIS KIT FOR INSTALLATION.

Left

Room

Blower

Right

Room

Blower

5.25”

6.5”

Chimney Installation

CHIMNEY

Your wood furnace may be hooked up with a factory built

or masonry chimney, matching the diameter of the exhaust.

If you are using a factory built chimney, it must comply with

UL 103 or CSA-B365 standard; therefore it must be a Type HT

(2100°F). It is extremely important that it be installed according

to the manufacturer’s specications.

If you are using a masonry chimney, it is important that it be

built in compliance with the specications of the National

Building Code. It must be lined with re clay bricks, metal or

clay tiles sealed together with re cement. (Round ues are

the most efcient).

The interior diameter of the chimney ue must be 6”. A ue which is too small may cause draft problems, while a

large ue favors rapid cooling of the gas, and hence the build-up of creosote and the risk of chimney res. Note

that it is the chimney and not the furnace which creates the draft effect; your furnace’s performance is directly

dependent on an adequate draft from your chimney.

Do not connect this unit to a chimney ue serving another appliance.

The following recommendations may be useful for the installation of your chimney:

• It must rise above the roof at least 3’ (0.9m) from the uppermost point of contact.

• The exterior portion should be double or triple wall pipe to ensure proper draft.

• The chimney must exceed any part of the building or other obstruction within a 10’ (3.04m) distance by a

height of 2’ (0.6m).

• Installation of an interior chimney is always preferable to an exterior chimney. The interior chimney will be

hotter than an exterior chimney that is being cooled by the ambient air outside the house. Therefore the gas

which circulates will cool slower, thus reducing the build-up of creosote and the risk of chimney res.

• The draft caused by the tendency for hot air to rise will be increased with an interior chimney.

• Using a re screen at the extremity of the chimney

requires regular inspection in order to insure that it is

not obstructed thus blocking the draft, and it should be

cleaned when used regularly.

IMPORTANCE OF PROPER DRAFT

Draft is the force which moves air from the appliance up

through the chimney. The amount of draft in your chimney

depends on the length of the chimney, local geography,

nearby obstructions and other factors. Too much draft

may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance.

Inadequate draft may cause back pufng into the room

and ‘plugging’ of the chimney. Inadequate draft will

cause the appliance to leak smoke into the room through

appliance and chimney connector joints.

An uncontrollable burn or excessive temperature indicates

excessive draft.

Take into account the chimney’s location to insure it is

not too close to neighbors or in a valley which may cause

unhealthy or nuisance conditions.

MASONRY CHIMNEY

Ensure that a masonry chimney meets the minimum

standards of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)

by having it inspected by a professional. Make sure there are

no cracks, loose mortar or other signs of deterioration and

blockage. Have the chimney cleaned before the furnace

is installed and operated. When connecting the furnace

through a combustible wall to a masonry chimney, special

methods are needed as explained in the “Combustible

Wall Chimney Connector Pass-Throughs” Section.

COMBUSTIBLE WALL CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PASS-THROUGHS

Method A. 12” (304.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall

Member: Using a minimum thickness 3.5” (89 mm) brick

and a 5/8” (15.9 mm) minimum wall thickness clay liner,

construct a wall pass-through. The clay liner must conform

to ASTM C315 (Standard Specication for Clay Fire Linings)

or its equivalent. Keep a minimum of 12” (304.8 mm) of brick

masonry between the clay liner and wall combustibles. The

clay liner shall run from the brick masonry outer surface to

the inner surface of the chimney ue liner but not past the

inner surface. Firmly grout or cement the clay liner in place

to the chimney ue liner.

Method B. 9” (228.6 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall

Member: Using a 6” (152.4 mm) inside diameter, listed,

factory-built Solid-Pak chimney section with insulation

of 1” (25.4 mm) or more, build a wall pass-through with a

minimum 9” (228.6 mm) air space between the outer wall of

the chimney length and wall combustibles. Use sheet metal

supports fastened securely to wall surfaces on all sides,

to maintain the 9” (228.6 mm) air space. When fastening

supports to chimney length, do not penetrate the chimney

liner (the inside wall of the Solid-Pak chimney). The inner end

of the Solid-Pak chimney section shall be ush with the inside

of the masonry chimney ue, and sealed with a non-water

soluble refractory cement. Use this cement to also seal to

the brick masonry penetration.

Method C. 6” (152.4 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall

Member: Starting with a minimum 24 gauge (.024” [.61 mm])

6” (152.4 mm) metal chimney connector, and a minimum 24

gauge ventilated wall thimble which has two air channels of

1” (25.4 mm) each, construct a wall pass-through. There shall

be a minimum 6” (152.4) mm separation area containing

berglass insulation, from the outer surface of the wall thimble

to wall combustibles. Support the wall thimble, and cover

its opening with a 24-gauge minimum sheet metal support.

Maintain the 6” (152.4 mm) space. There should also be a

support sized to t and hold the metal chimney connector.

See that the supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces

on all sides. Make sure fasteners used to secure the metal

chimney connector do not penetrate chimney ue liner.

Method D. 2” (50.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall

Member: Start with a solid-pak listed factory built chimney

section at least 12” (304 mm) long, with insulation of 1” (25.4

mm) or more, and an inside diameter of 8” (2 inches [51 mm]

larger than the 6” [152.4 mm] chimney connector). Use this

as a pass-through for a minimum 24-gauge single wall steel

chimney connector. Keep solid-pak section concentric with

and spaced 1” (25.4 mm) off the chimney connector by

way of sheet metal support plates at both ends of chimney

section. Cover opening with and support chimney section

on both sides with 24 gauge minimum sheet metal supports.

See that the supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces

on all sides. Make sure fasteners used to secure chimney ue

do not penetrate ue liner.

NOTES:

Connectors to a masonry chimney, excepting method B, shall extend in one continuous section through the

wall pass-through system and the chimney wall, to but not past the inner ue liner face. A chimney connector

shall not pass through an attic or roof space, closet or similar concealed space, or a oor, or ceiling.

CHIMNEY CONNECTOR

Your chimney connector and chimney

must have a 6” diameter. If this is not the

case, we recommend you contact your

dealer in order to insure there will be no

problem with the draft.

The furnace pipe must be made of

aluminized or cold roll steel with a

minimum thickness of 0.021” or 0.53 mm.

It is strictly forbidden to use galvanized

steel.

Your connector should be assembled in

such a way that the male section (crimped

end) of the pipe faces down. Attach

each of the sections to one another with

three equidistant metal screws. Seal the

joints with furnace cement.

The pipe must be short and straight. All

sections installed horizontally must slope at least 1/4 inch per foot, with the upper end of the section toward the

chimney. Any installation with a horizontal run of furnace pipe must conform to NFPA 211. You may contact NFPA

(National Fire Protection Association) and request the latest edition of the NFPA Standard 211.

To insure a good draft, the total length of the furnace pipe should never exceed 8’ to 10’ (2.4m to 3.04 m).

(Except for cases of vertical installation, cathedral-roof style where the smoke exhaust system can be much

longer and connected without problem to the chimney at the ceiling of the room).

There should never be more than two 90 degrees elbows in the smoke exhaust system.

Installation of a “barometric draft stabilizer” (replace register) on a smoke exhaust system is prohibited.

Furthermore, installation of a draft damper is not recommended. With a controlled combustion wood furnaces

the draft is regulated upon intake of the combustion air in the furnace and not at the exhaust.

Appliance

FACTORY BUILT CHIMNEY

When a metal prefabricated chimney is used, the

manufacturer’s installation instructions must be followed.

You must also purchase (from the same manufacturer) and

install the ceiling support package or wall pass-through

and “T” section package, restops (where needed),

insulation shield, roof ashing, chimney cap, etc. Maintain

proper clearance to the structure as recommended by

the manufacturer. The chimney must be the required

height above the roof or other obstructions for safety and

proper draft operation.

Wood Heat Utilization

The top down method of re building is recommended for this appliance. After making sure that the stove air

intake controls are fully open (open all three air controls to there maximum setting). Place the largest pieces of

wood on the bottom, laid in parallel and close together. Smaller pieces are placed in a second layer, crossways

to the rst. A third layer of still smaller pieces is laid crossways to the second, this time with some spaces between.

Then a fourth layer of loose, small kindling and twisted newspaper sheets tops off the pile.

Higher efciencies and lower emissions generally result when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as

compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.

DO NOT BURN:

1. Garbage;

2. Lawn clippings or yard waste;

3. Materials containing rubber, including tires;

4. Materials containing plastic;

5. Waste petroleum products, paints or paint

thinners, or asphalt products;

6. Materials containing asbestos;

7. Construction or demolition debris;

8. Railroad ties or pressure-treated wood;

9. Manure or animal remains;

10. Salt water driftwood or other previously salt water

saturated materials;

11. Unseasoned wood; or

12. Paper products, cardboard, plywood, or

particleboard. The prohibition against burning

these materials does not prohibit the use of re

starters made from paper, cardboard, saw dust,

wax and similar substances for the purpose of

starting a re in an affected wood heater.

Burning these materials may result in release of toxic fumes or render the heater ineffective and cause smoke.

Dead wood lying on the forest oor should be considered wet, and requires full seasoning time. Standing dead

wood can usually be considered to be about 2/3 seasoned. Splitting and stacking wood before it is stored

accelerates drying time. Storing wood on an elevated surface from the ground and under a cover or covered

area from rain or snow also accelerates drying time. A good indicator if wood is ready to burn is to check the

piece ends. If there are cracks radiating in all directions from the center then the wood should be dry enough

to burn. If your wood sizzles in the re, even though the surface is dry, it may not be fully cured, and should be

seasoned longer.

Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical

additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but be

careful burning too much of these logs at the same time. Start with one manufactured log and

see how the stove reacts. You can increase the number of logs burned at a time to making

sure the temperature never rises higher than 475 °F (246 °C) on a magnetic thermometer for

installation on single wall stove pipes or 900 °F (482 °C) on a probe thermometer for installation

on double wall stove pipe.

The thermometer should be

placed about 18” (457 mm)

above the stove. Higher

temperatures can lead to

overheat and damage your

stove.

Your furnace was designed

to burn wood only; no other

materials should be burned.

Waste and other ammable

materials should not be

burned in your furnace. DO

NOT USE CHEMICALS OR

FLUIDS TO START THE FIRE.

DO NOT BURN GARBAGE,

GASOLINE, NAPTHA,

ENGINE OIL, OR OTHER

INAPPROPRIATE MATERIALS.

Any type of wood may be

used in your furnace, but

specic varieties have better

energy yields than others.

Please consult the following

table in order to make the

best possible choice.

TYPE

WEIGHT

(LBS. CU. FT., DRY)

PER CORD

EFFICIENCY

RANKING

SPLITS

MILLIONS BTU’s/

CORD

Hickory 63 4500 1.0 Well 31.5

White Oak 48 4100 .9 Fair 28.6

Red Oak 46 3900 .8 Fair 27.4

Beech 45 3800 .7 Hard 26.8

Sugar Maple 44 3700 .6 Fair 26.2

Black Oak 43 3700 .6 Fair 25.6

Ash 42 3600 .5 Well 25.0

Yellow Birch 40 3400 .4 Hard 23.8

Red Maple 38 3200 .3 Fair 22.6

Paper Birch 37 3100 .3 Easy 22.1

Elm/

Sycamore

34 2900 .2

Very

Difcult

20.1

Red Spruce 29 1800 .1 Easy 16.1

It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you use DRY WOOD only. The wood should have dried for 9 to 15 months, such

that the humidity content (in weight) is reduced below 20% of the weight of the log. It is very important to keep

in mind that even if the wood has been cut for one, two or even more years, it is not necessarily dry, if it has

been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme conditions it may rot, instead of drying. This point cannot be over

stressed; the vast majority of the problems related to the operation of a wood furnace is caused by the fact that

the wood used was too damp or has dried in poor conditions.

These problems can be:

• Ignition problems

• Creosote build-up causing chimney res

• Low energy yield

• Blackened windows

• Incomplete log combustion

Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. All logs exceeding 6” in diameter should be split. The wood should not be

stored directly on the ground. Air should circulate through the cord. A 24” to 48” air space should be left between

each row of logs, which should be placed in the sunniest location possible. The upper layer of wood should be

protected from the elements but not the sides.

AIR CONTROL’S

LOW BURN RATE SETTING

FULLY CLOSED

Primary Air Damper

FULLY CLOSED

Tertiary Air Damper

MAXIMUM BURN RATE SETTING

FULLY OPENED

Primary Air Damper

FULLY OPENED

Tertiary Air Damper

AIR CONTROL

Low Burn Rate High Burn Rate

Primary Air Damper Fully Closed Fully Open

Tertiary Air Damper Fully Closed Fully Open

ALTERNATE AIR CONTROL

Low Burn Rate High Burn Rate

Primary Air Damper Fully Closed Fully Open

Tertiary Air Damper Fully Closed Fully Open

Low Burn Rate & Setting

Max Burn Rate & Setting

*Always use the provided separable

handle to adjust the primary and tertiary

air dampers.

Fully Closed

Tertiary Air Damper

Fully Opened

Tertiary Air Damper

Fully Closed

Primary Air Damper

Fully Opened

Primary Air Damper

Operation

NOTICE: To minimize the risk of smoke spillage when opening the door with a re in your furnace, crack

the door open no more than 1” and wait for at least 10 seconds before opening it more to allow pressure

stabilization inside the furnace.

TESTING YOUR WOOD

When the furnace is thoroughly warmed, place one piece of split wood (about ve inches in diameter) parallel

to the door on the bed of red embers.

Adjust all air controls to there maximum settings and close the door. If ignition of the piece is accomplished

within 90 seconds from the time if was placed in the furnace, your wood is correctly dried. If ignition takes longer,

your wood is damp.

If your wood hisses and water or vapor escapes at the ends of the piece, your wood is soaked or freshly cut.

Do not use this wood in your furnace. Large amounts of creosote could be deposited in your chimney, creating

potential conditions for a chimney re.

THE FIRST FIRES

The fresh paint on your furnace needs to be cured to preserve its quality. Once the fuel charge is properly

ignited, only burn small res in your furnace for the rst four hours of operation. Never open the air control’s more

than necessary to achieve a medium burn rate.

Make sure that there’s enough air circulation while curing the furnace. DO NOT connect your furnace to the

duct work during this curing process. The odors could be smelled during the 3 or 4 rst res. Never start your

furnace outside. You will not be able to see if you are over heating.

LIGHTING YOUR WOOD FURNACE

1. Make sure that your furnace has been installed as per the instructions outlined in this manual and the proper

power is supplied to it.

2. Open the fuel loading door.

Note: If there already is a bed of hot/glowing coals in the combustion chamber, proceed directly to the

Preheating step.

3. Place several pieces of small dry kindling in the front of the combustion chamber directly on the rebricks.

4. Lay a few twists of newspaper over the kindling.

5. Lay more dry kindling (crisscrossing) on top of the previous layers and possibly a few more twists of newspaper

if needed.

6. Light the lowest newspaper in the stack.

Note: In some draft situation you may be required to leave the door cracked no more than ½” only till a re is

established in the stack

No chemical product should be used to light the re.

PREHEATING YOUR WOOD FURNACE

1. Once the kindling is burning well or the glowing coal bed is stirred up, lay 2 or 3 pieces of well-seasoned

cordwood down so that the ame from the kindling re can circulate around the logs and close the door.

Note: You may need to add more kindling to help ignite the cordwood.

2. Before loading your furnace fully you will want a well-established re in the combustion chamber. This

typically takes 15-20 minutes.

HEATING WITH YOUR WOOD FURNACE

1. Spread the re and coals evenly towards the center of the combustion chamber before loading your

furnace fully or adding more wood.

2. Avoid overlling the combustion chamber. Air must be allowed to circulate freely through the upper portion

of the combustion chamber for the stove to perform best. Typically this would mean not to load your furnace

more than ¾ of the way up the door opening.

CAUTION: Never alter the “damper slide” or the adjustment range to increase ring for any reason. Doing so

could result in heater damage and will void your warranty.

OPERATION

Controlled combustion is the most efcient technique for wood heating because it enables you to select the

type of combustion you want for each given situation. The wood will burn slowly if the wood furnace air intake

control’s are adjusted to reduce the oxygen supply in the combustion chamber to a minimum. On the other hand,

wood will burn quickly if the air control’s are adjusted to admit a larger quantity of oxygen in the combustion

chamber. Real operating conditions may give very different results than those obtained during testing according

to the species of wood used, its moisture content, the size and density of the pieces, the length of the chimney,

altitude and outside temperature.

RELOADING

Once you have obtained a good bed of embers, you should reload the unit. In order to do so, open the air

controls to maximum a few seconds prior to opening the furnace’s door. Then proceed by opening the door

very slowly. Then bring the red embers to the front of the furnace and reload the unit. For optimal operation of

your wood furnace, we recommend you to operate it with a wood load approximately equivalent to the 3/4 of

the height of re bricks. It is important to note that wood combustion consumes ambient oxygen in the room. In

the case of negative pressure, it is a good idea to allow fresh air in the room, either by opening a window slightly

or by installing a fresh air intake system on an outside wall.

Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal - When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic

vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively

cool chimney ue of a slow-burning re. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the ue lining. When

ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot re. The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at

least twice monthly during the heating season to determine if a creosote build-up has occurred. If creosote has

accumulated (3mm or more), it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney re.

We strongly recommend that you install a magnetic thermometer on your smoke exhaust pipe, approximately

18” above the furnace. This thermometer will indicate the temperature of your gas exhaust fumes within the

smoke exhaust system. The ideal temperature for these gases is somewhere between 275°F and 500°F. Below

these temperatures, the build-up of creosote is promoted. Above 500 degrees, heat is wasted since a too large

quantity is lost into the atmosphere.

OPERATION AFTER LOSS OF ELECRICAL POWER

This unit is not intended to be operated during power outage situations. If there is a power outage while the unit

is being red, do not add more wood, close all air controls to there minimum setting, and remove the air lter. Do

not re the unit again until power has been restored.

TO PREVENT CREOSOTE BUILD UP

Always burn dry wood. This allows clean burns and higher chimney temperatures, therefore less creosote deposit.

Leave the air control full open for about 5 min. every time you reload the furnace to bring it back to proper

operating temperatures. The secondary combustion can only take place if the rebox is hot enough.

Always check for creosote deposit once every two months and have your chimney cleaned at least once a

year. If a chimney or creosote re occurs, close all dampers immediately. Wait for the re to go out and the

heater to cool, then inspect the chimney for damage. If no damage results, perform a chimney cleaning to

ensure there is no more creosote deposits remaining in the chimney.

ASH DISPOSAL

Whenever ashes get 3 to 4 inches deep in your rebox or ash pan, and when the re has burned down and

cooled, remove excess ashes. Leave an ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on the rebox bottom to help

maintain a hot charcoal bed.

Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-tting lid. The closed container of ashes should be

placed on a noncombustible oor or on the ground, away from all combustible materials, pending nal disposal.

The ashes should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.

If there is a soot or creosote re:

• Establish a routine for the storage of fuel, care for the appliance and ring techniques.

• Check daily for creosote buildup until experience shows how often cleaning is necessary.

WARNINGS:

• Never over re your furnace. If any part of the furnace starts to glow red, over ring is happening. Readjust

the air intake control at a lower setting.

• The installation of a log cradle or grates is not recommended in your wood furnace. Build re directly on

rebrick.

• Never put wood above the rebrick lining of the rebox.

• Be aware that the hotter the re, the less creosote is deposited, and that weekly cleaning can be necessary

in mild weather, even though monthly cleaning can be enough in the coldest months.

• Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney re.

TAMPER WARNING

This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal

regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating

instructions in this manual.

VISIBLE SMOKE

The amount of visible smoke being produced can be an effective method of determining how efciently the

combustion process is taking place at the given settings. Visible smoke consist of unburned fuel and moisture

leaving your stove. Learn to adjust the air settings of your specic unit to produce the smallest amount of visible

smoke. Wood that has not been seasoned properly and has a high wood moisture content will produce excess

visible smoke and burn poorly. Use the included moisture meter to insure your wood has a 20% or less moisture

content.

EFFICIENCY

Efciencies can be based on either the lower heating value (LHV) or the higher heating value (HHV) of the fuel.

The lower heating value is when water leaves the combustion process as a vapor, in the case of wood stoves the

moisture in the wood being burned leaves the stove as a vapor. The higher heating value is when water leaves

the combustion process completely condensed. In the case of wood stoves this would assume the exhaust gases

are room temperature when leaving the system, and therefore calculations using this heating value consider

the heat going up the chimney as lost energy. Therefore, efciency calculated using the lower heating value of

wood will be higher than efciency calculated using the higher heating value. In the United States all wood stove

efciencies should be calculated using the higher heating value. The best way to achieve optimum efciencies

is to learn the burn characteristic of you appliance and burn well-seasoned wood. Higher burn rates are not

always the best heating burn rates; after a good re is established a lower burn rate may be a better option for

efcient heating. A lower burn rate slows the ow of usable heat out of the home through the chimney, and it

also consumes less wood.

SMOKE AND CO MONITORS

Burning wood naturally produces smoke and carbon monoxide(CO) emissions. CO is a poisonous gas when

exposed to elevated concentrations for extended periods of time. While the modern combustion systems in

heaters drastically reduce the amount of CO emitted out the chimney, exposure to the gases in closed or conned

areas can be dangerous. Make sure you stove gaskets and chimney joints are in good working order and sealing

properly to ensure unintended exposure. It is recommended that you use both smoke and CO monitors in areas

having the potential to generate CO.

OVER FIRING

Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design specications can result in permanent

damage to the heater

OPERATIONAL TIPS

• Get the appliance hot and establish a good coal bed before adjusting to a low burn rate (this may take 30

minutes or more depending on your wood), for an optimal low burn rate, once there is a well established

re in the furnace, close the damper on the door, and the rear pilot air damper completely, and open the

secondary air damper to its maximum setting

• Use smaller pieces of wood during start-up and a high burn rate to increase the stove temperature

• Be considerate of the environment and only burn dry wood

• Burn small, intense res instead of large, slow burning res when possible

• Learn your appliance’s operating characteristics to obtain optimum performance

• Burning unseasoned wet wood only hurts your stoves efciency and leads to accelerated creosote buildup

in your chimney.

CAUTIONS:

• Ashes could contain hot embers even after two days without operating the furnace.

• The ash pan can become very hot. Wear gloves to prevent injury.

• Never burn the furnace with the ash trap open. This would result in over ring the furnace. Damage to the

furnace and even house re may result.

Your wood furnace is a high efciency furnace and therefore requires little maintenance. It is important to

perform a visual inspection of the furnace every time it is emptied, in order to insure that no parts have been

damaged, in which case repairs must be performed immediately. Inspect and clean the chimney and connector

pipe periodically for creosote buildup or obstructions.

GASKET

It is recommended that you change the door gasket (which makes your furnace door air tight) once a year, in

order to insure good control over the combustion, maximum efciency and security. To change the door gasket,

simply remove the damaged one. Carefully clean the available gasket groove, apply a high temperature

silicone sold for this purpose and install the new gasket. You may light up your furnace again approximately 24

hours after having completed this operation. This unit’s feed door uses a 3/4” diameter rope gasket. This unit’s

ash door uses a 1/2” diameter rope gasket.

PAINT

Only clean your furnace with a dry soft cloth that will not harm the paint nish. If the paint becomes scratched or

damaged, it is possible to give your wood furnace a brand new look by repainting it with a 1200° F heat resistant

paint. For this purpose, simply scrub the surface to be repainted with ne sand paper, clean it properly, and apply

thin coats (2) of paint successively.

AIR TUBES

The air tubes assembled in this unit are designed to provide an accurate mix of secondary air to insure the

highest efciency. Any damage or deterioration of these tubes may reduce the efciency of combustion. The

air tubes are held in position by either screws or snap pins. Locate these to either side of the tube and remove to

allow the tube to be removed and replaced.

WARNING: Never operate the furnace without a gasket or with a broken one. Damage to the furnace or

even house re may result.

Maintenance

ATTENTION: This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal

regulations to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.

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USSC AF1600E Mode d'emploi

Marque: USSC

Modèle: AF1600E

Catégorie: Poêle à bois

Taper: Mode d'emploi

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